Turn this guide into a working cut in four steps:

1. Enter Your Machine's True Power: Select 40W, 60W, or 100W to match your laser's rated tube or diode output.
2. Pick the Material: Choose plywood, MDF, pine, or oak — each responds differently to the same settings.
3. Choose Thickness: Select 1/8-inch or 1/4-inch to get a starting speed, power, and pass count.
4. Run a Test Grid, Then Tune: Cut a small sample on scrap, then nudge speed down or power up in 5 percent steps until the cut is clean and complete.

These values are baselines, not constants — focus, lens condition, and air assist move the result more than any chart can predict.

• Speed: The speed at which the laser head moves, typically in mm/s. Slower speeds allow the laser to burn deeper.
• Power: The output power of the laser, expressed as a percentage of its maximum. Higher power burns deeper.
• Passes: The number of times the laser will trace the same path. Multiple passes at a lower power can produce a cleaner cut with less charring than a single pass at high power.
• Kerf: The width of the material that is vaporized by the laser beam. This must be accounted for in designs requiring tight tolerances.
• Charring: The burning or scorching of the wood along the cut edge, which can be minimized by optimizing settings and using air assist.

"The most important, and often overlooked, factor is the focus of your lens. An improperly focused laser will produce a wide, charred cut and may not even make it through the material. Always perform a ramp test to find the perfect focal distance for your specific lens and material thickness before you even think about speed and power settings." - Laser Cutting Professional

"Don't underestimate the importance of good air assist. A strong, directed jet of air clears smoke and debris from the cut, allowing the laser to work more efficiently. It results in a cleaner, deeper cut with significantly less charring and reduces the risk of flare-ups."

Example 1: 60W cutting 1/4-inch plywood.
The guide starts you at 15 mm/s, 70% power, 2 passes. Two lighter passes clear the sheet with less edge char than one aggressive pass at full power.

Example 2: 40W cutting 1/4-inch oak.
Dense hardwood on a small machine is the slowest combination here: 5 mm/s, 90% power, 3 passes. A lower-powered laser must trade speed and repeat passes to reach the same depth.

Example 3: 100W cutting 1/8-inch pine.
Softwood plus a big laser runs fast and cool at 60 mm/s, 40% power, 1 pass. More power means you back the settings down, not up, to avoid scorching resinous grain.

• Skipping the Test Grid: Cutting your finished part on untested settings is how a whole sheet becomes scrap. Always prove the numbers on matching scrap first.
• Confusing Rated with Actual Power: A "60W" tube that has degraded, or a diode labeled by diode rather than optical output, behaves like a weaker machine. Band accordingly.
• Cutting MDF in a Poorly Ventilated Room: MDF's resin produces heavy, foul smoke and residue. Strong exhaust and cleaning are non-negotiable, not just nice to have.
• Ignoring Out-of-Focus Optics: Chasing speed and power while the lens is dirty or mis-focused wastes material. Fix focus and clean the lens before touching the numbers.