Workshop Unit Converter
A general-purpose unit converter for common workshop measurements.
Working with different measurement systems is a common reality in a global workshop. Plans might be in metric, while your tools are imperial. This simple utility provides a quick and easy way to convert between the most common units of length used in making and building.
Eliminate errors and save time by using this converter to switch between inches, feet, millimeters, and centimeters.
Every length conversion is a single multiplication by a fixed ratio. This calculator stores the standard factors and applies them for you.
- Enter the value: Type the number you want to convert. If your measurement is a fraction, turn it into a decimal first (see the worked example below).
- Choose the source unit: Pick the unit you are starting from — inches, feet, millimeters, or centimeters.
- Choose the target unit: Pick the unit you want the answer in. The dropdown only shows units valid for your source.
- Read the result: The tool multiplies your value by the stored factor.
Converted = Value × (Target units per Source unit)
The anchor factor is 1 inch = 25.4 mm exactly. Everything else is derived from it and from 12 inches per foot, so the math stays consistent in both directions.
Example 1: Metric plan to an imperial drill.
A shelf-pin layout calls for 32 mm centers. Convert 32 mm to inches: 32 × (1 ÷ 25.4) ≈ 1.26 inches. Mark 1.26″ between holes instead of guessing 1.25″, and your jig still lines up at the tenth hole.
Example 2: Fractional inch to millimeters for a metric blade guard.
A 5⅝″ tenon must clear a guard. First decimalize: 5 + (5 ÷ 8) = 5.625″. Then convert: 5.625 × 25.4 = 142.875 mm. Enter 142.9 mm as the cutting height.
Example 3: Feet to centimeters for sheet goods.
A 6-foot offcut: 6 × 30.48 = 182.88 cm, useful when a European hardware listing is sized in centimeters.
- Converting a fraction directly: Entering “5 5/8” as 5.58 instead of 5.625. Decimalize the fraction first, then convert.
- Rounding 25.4 to 25: A 1.6% error that compounds across many parts. Always use the exact 25.4 mm-per-inch factor.
- Swapping the direction: Multiplying millimeters by 25.4 to get inches. Going metric→imperial means dividing by 25.4, not multiplying.
- Trusting tool labels blindly: A “1/4-inch” bit is nominal; measure the shank in millimeters before you match it to a 6 mm collet.
"Pick one system as your shop's native unit and convert only at the boundary — reading a metric plan, buying a metric fastener. When everything on the bench is inches or everything is millimeters, you make fewer transcription errors than if you mix them mid-project." — Bench Builder
"Nominal sizes lie; measured sizes don't. A '2×4' and a '1/4-inch dowel' are labels. When a fit matters, measure the real part and convert that number, not the name on the box."
- Foreign plans: Turn metric dimensions from European or Asian free plans into the inches your tape reads.
- Hardware matching: Confirm a metric bolt, nut, or router-bit shank against its imperial nickname before you buy.
- CNC and CAD import: Reconcile a file drawn in millimeters with stock ordered in feet and inches.
- Quick shop math: Check a rough figure by hand when you don't want to trust a mental conversion.
- Imperial System: A system of measurement using units like inches, feet, pounds, etc. Primarily used in the United States.
- Metric System (SI): The international standard system of measurement using units like meters, grams, etc. Used by most of the world.
- Conversion Factor: The exact number you multiply by to change one unit into another, such as 25.4 mm per inch.
- Nominal Size: A rounded trade name for a part, like “1/4 inch,” that may differ slightly from its true measured size.
How we calculate & sources
Formulas follow accepted woodworking practice and cited building-code / industry standards. Results are estimates — always verify against your own material and local code.
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Always double-check your measurements before cutting.
Account for the kerf (the width of the saw blade) in your calculations.
Consider wood movement (expansion and contraction) in your final dimensions.
Buy 10-15% extra material to account for mistakes and waste.
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