Tapered Drawer Side Layout Calculator
Calculate the angle for cutting tapered drawer sides.
Creating angled or tapered parts is a common design element in furniture, especially for table legs or unique drawer boxes. Setting the correct angle on a tapering jig or miter gauge is essential to achieving the desired final shape. This calculator helps you find that precise angle.
By inputting the start height, end height, and the length of the workpiece, this tool uses basic trigonometry to calculate the exact angle of the taper. This removes the guesswork and trial-and-error, allowing you to set up your jig and make a perfect cut on the first try.
Set your tapering jig or miter gauge to this angle.
The calculation uses the arctangent function to find the angle from the sides of a right-angled triangle.
- Determine Triangle Sides: Imagine a right-angled triangle where the 'adjacent' side is the length of your drawer side, and the 'opposite' side is the difference between your tallest and shortest heights.
- Calculate Height Difference: The calculator finds the length of the 'opposite' side by subtracting the shortest height from the tallest height.
- Apply Arctangent: The angle is found by calculating the arctangent of the ratio of the opposite side to the adjacent side. The result is then converted from radians to degrees.
Angle = arctan( (Height Difference) / Length )
Example 1: A classic tapered drawer side.
Tall end 6″, short end 4″ over an 18″ side. The height difference is 2″, so the taper angle is arctan(2 ÷ 18) ≈ 6.34°. On a tapering jig you set that 6.34°; on a miter gauge you'd instead dial in 90 − 6.34 = 83.66°.
Example 2: A gently tapered table leg.
A leg that's 2.5″ at the top and 1.5″ at the bottom over 30″ has a 1″ difference, giving arctan(1 ÷ 30) ≈ 1.9°. Small angles like this are exactly where a jig beats eyeballing the fence offset.
- Setting the miter gauge to the taper angle. The result is the taper itself, not the gauge reading. Subtract it from 90° to get the miter-gauge angle, or you'll cut a taper many times too steep.
- Tapering both faces from one number. A leg tapers on more than one side; each cut removes its own wedge. Re-measure the height difference for each face instead of assuming one angle finishes the leg.
- Using the diagonal, not the length. Feed the horizontal run (the length of the side) into the calculator, not the slanted top-to-bottom distance, or the angle comes out short.
- Forgetting grain direction on legs. A taper cut across a weak grain line can chip or flex; orient the taper so the strong grain runs with the cut.
"For drawer sides I aim for the taper that lets the front sit proud and the back tuck under the runners — often a couple of degrees. I calculate it once, set a stop and the jig, and every side in the set matches without chasing fit at the bench." — Furniture Builder
"Cut just shy of the line and clean up with a plane. On a taper, a hair of extra material is invisible and adjustable, but a cut gone too far means a new part. Let the number on this page be your target, not your first pass."
- Taper: A gradual narrowing of an object from one end to the other.
- Tapering Jig: A table saw jig that holds a workpiece at a specific angle to the blade, allowing for the creation of tapered cuts.
- Arctangent (arctan): A trigonometric function that calculates the angle of a right-angled triangle from the ratio of its opposite and adjacent sides.
How we calculate & sources
Formulas follow accepted woodworking practice and cited building-code / industry standards. Results are estimates — always verify against your own material and local code.
- Wood Handbook — Wood as an Engineering Material (USDA Forest Service)
- International Residential Code (IRC), Span Tables
Always double-check your measurements before cutting.
Account for the kerf (the width of the saw blade) in your calculations.
Consider wood movement (expansion and contraction) in your final dimensions.
Buy 10-15% extra material to account for mistakes and waste.
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